The kingfish ceviche is a standout dish of the day. There is a kick of lime and coriander, small cubes of flesh just touched by the sour juices, garnished with a few strips of crunchy sweet potato. Texture comes from corn kernels charred on the wood fired grill. It’s not easy to distinguish what they are at first, nutty and a little caramel. We ask the waiter what they are, assuming they were crazy. It’s “cancha” on the menu, which translates as corn nuts, which is a snack in Peru.